Tuesday, February 06, 2007

I Travel to a Tropical Paradise

Oddly, all my anxieties evaporated the moment I got into the airport. Some people are nervous in airports but not me. Once I actually get there, it's all old hat. Everything went so smoothly too; it was like clockwork. I didn't have to remove my belt or my shoes or my watch at security. They looked at my laptop, opened and sniffed my water-bottle (to make sure it was water and not alcohol) and that was that.

The service on the flight (Southern China air) was superb in an old-fashioned way--perhaps a sense that only the privileged have the means to fly, and so you are always treated as unique and important? I'm not sure, but in any case I thought the service was great. Dinner was abundant and tasty--but then I'm fine with airplane food, which puts me in the minority...

By chance I met up with another FB classmate on the same flight, and we agreed to split a cab to the place where the conference was--any vestigial traces of anxiety disappeared completely. Safety in numbers. We took a fast train from the airport to Kowloon station. It was clean and silent and not at all crowded. We crossed bridges over the nighttime sea. I was enthralled. It was gorgeous. From there we took a cab. Passing through the city, I felt it was so gloriously clean! and beautiful, so much green everywhere from the trees, a road all slopes and curves.

The cab driver spoke a cute Cantonese-accented Mandarin, and told us that the area we were going was "very beautiful, very beautiful." He thought it was hilarious when I apologized for not having small change--it's a source of great anxiety in Beijing; if you ask them to make more than ten or twenty kuai change they mutter and act sullen and sometimes just plain can't do it. I explained this and the cab driver said with great pride and smugness, "Ha! I have change!" He also told us we should have taken a cab all the way from the airport given that there were two of us. He gave us quite an exposition, all the sums and relative times. I found it endearing, and even when he charged a slight "luggage fee" I had no problem with it. It's in lieu of a tip anyway--tipping will be a strange habit to get back into, as it doesn't exist at all here!

Here are a couple photos from my first night.




I could tell immediately that the weather was different. It was beautifully warm and moist. I ditched my coat and stood around in my long-sleeve t-shirt--just right. The moon looked huge over the horizon. People socialized out on the terrace. I chatted with a history professor who works on Tang and Song China, a really neat conversation. I felt purely happy and fortunate, as if someone had just lifted me up and dumped me in Hawaii.

2 comments:

Andrea said...

I love airports. I love Cantonese-accented Mandarin (every sentence ending in "-ah"). And I LOVE Hong Kong. It's been too long since I was there last. I understand the feeling of going from the freezing cold interior of China to the comfortably warm Hong Kong. Ahhhh...

ZaPaper said...

It's amazing that you just said "I love airports." But I'm with you on the Cantonese accent... unless you can't understand it at all. Actually, I just found it restful to listen to plain old Cantonese, because I didn't have to PRETEND not to understand. And everyone I wanted to communicate with was so outgoing with body-language that I understood them anyway. :)